Photo: Myself on Pull Of The Sun and Mr Cool, Rock Of Ages.
Routes. 27. 4a to7a
Access. Problematic! Walk-in 3min.
Water. On Drive-in.
A bit different to the run-of-the-mill sport climbing cliff and one of my favourites due to the number of rather different climbs, more a cliff for thugs than technicians and great fun. Very varied climbing and suitable nearly all year (winter can be cold) and only 3 minutes walk but the drive-in can be a problem first time, you need the guide book! 27 single pitch sport routes up to 30m with some very short boulder type routes to start and getting longer as you go up the ravine.
For a complete change from normal sport climbs Dancing With Monsters and Pull Of The Sun (both 6a+) give a more "trad" feel and are great fun, the latter climbing out through the cleft in the cliff (hence the name of the cliff, for those of a religious bent). Highlights of the main wall are Mr Cool 5c and the neighbouring Dreamtime 5b and The Rising 5b all climbing the overhanging wall on enormous holds, you need no skill only strength!
On the main wall ( that is; between The Rising and Gammel Hans) Hans Weninger was also busy;
Hydra 9 bolts 5c 28m
Furioso 9 bolts 6b 28m
Like all the routes on this wall three stars!