The Climbing

Small holds on steep grey slabs, huge holes on overhanging red rock, fingery cracks, juggy overhangs and monster roofs with the Aegean sparkling in the distance. Argolis has some of the best climbing in Greece with the greatest variety of cliffs, best climate, easiest access and the most bolt routes on the mainland.

Argolis offers over 250 perfectly equipped sports climbs with a number of longer multi-pitch bolt routes and adventure climbs in a wide variety of grades to suit all but the top climber. That climbing is possible at any season makes Argolis unique in Greece and has lead to its increasing popularity amongst visiting and Greek climbers alike.

The area was specifically developed with visitors in mind with many easier climbs suitable for less able climbers, but at the same time with a high standard of bolting, no more two-bolt grade fives! The individual cliffs (currently 9) were also selected to give a variety of climbing experiences while permitting climbing all year round, something not easy to find in an area with summer temperatures that reach the low 40´s.

The following is a brief review of each cliff with a route breakdown and some horribly compressed photo´s. The cliffs are described from south to north as in the guide book.

Throughout this section the term sport or bolt route(s) indicates that all protection is in place with lower-offs and no additional equipment is nescessary. Adventure or trad routes are those where you must place your own protection i.e nuts, slings or cams though here in the Argolis the belays are bolted.

Equipment

For all routes in Argolis a 60m rope will suffice.

For the sport climbs 12 quickdraws are sufficient with the exception of Mission Impossible in the Caves of Frachti which requires 16.

For the trad climbs a normal half rack will do, that is one set nuts, friends 1-31/2. and a few slings. The most useful nuts appear to be the sizes 4-7 so a few extra of these can be useful.

Route names are written at the start of the climbs with the exception of Mt Ortholithi and some at Frachti.

The number of bolts on the routes is to be found in the guide book along with the grade, the bolt count includes those at the lower-off.

Nearly all routes are bolted using glued-in stainless steel rod "Buhler" type bolts, tested to in excess of 38kN, some stainless bolt-ins are used with a bent rod hanger (test 28kN), both types allowing easy threading to retreat from a route.

Belays / Lower Off Points. These are equipped with two bolts, on a few multi pitch routes even three to make belaying easy. A number of routes are fitted with "Monster Hooks" as lower.offs, these do not require untieing from the rope to thread, are 12mm dia. stainless for use as top rope points, the rope cannot come out and are very strong (well over 70kN).

Here is what they look like and how to thread them.

Abseil Pistes. At Katafyki and Ortholithi there are abseil points (twin bolts) to allow descent from the longer routes using only a single 60m rope.

NOTE ! There are no equipment shops on the Peleponese so if anything gets lost or damaged you will have to go to Athens for replacement, this applies particularly to rock boots which because of the sharpness of the rock take a lot of punishment. Details of some suppliers are to be found in the guide.

Guide Print Out (pdf)